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Jingdong book

知味云南:《舌尖上的中国》《风味人间》美食顾问、云南美食“带路党”敢于胡乱作品(套装共2册)

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知味云南:《舌尖上的中国》《风味人间》美食顾问、云南美食“带路党”敢于胡乱作品(套装共2册)

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Content Description

业内交口称赞的资深云南美食“带路党”敢于胡乱,公开云南觅食经。

本书主要以云南特色食物为线索,揭示云南美食窍要,以及饮食与当地风俗、地理和历史之间的深厚关系。


Author Description

敢于胡乱

摄影师,云南美食长期田野调查者,偏好云南特有食材的发掘推介;多家媒体云南饮食专栏作者;纪录片《舌尖上的中国》及多部饮食类纪录片云南美食顾问;专业普洱茶杂志《普洱》前主笔。


Catalogue

绿了芭蕉红了花

有关菌子

松茸的云南语境

了不起的见手青

菌子的两种重口味

野生菌皇后鸡

释放干巴菌

全菌宴闲话

春来云南重吃花

说说芭蕉叶

绿了芭蕉红了花

芋头花三弄

遇见核桃花

金琐莓和黑琐莓

木瓜、番木瓜和栘枍

水果也是菜

香橼

野生杨梅

本地鳝鱼

芹菜鲫壳鱼

蛙中隐士和泼皮小弟

酸辣泥鳅

鱼肉劲道

羊肉薄荷和茶叶

臭参排骨土黄天

羊肉散说

干巴此物

彝家坨坨肉

油底肉

云南火腿地图

鸡零牛碎

云肥肠

蜂蛹

蚂蚁也是菜

蚕豆是个高手

青豆米

从豌豆尖到干兰片

苞谷粑粑和苞谷老酱

打个蘸水

剁好再炒

万能松毛

饵块饵丝

血辣子

期待饵块

维西苋米粑粑

苦味自知

猛菜一二三

牛肉面

乳饼乳扇

云南式火锅

云南式泡菜

下酒菜

好吃不过杀猪饭

好吃不过霜冻菜

腊月腊味

说说咖啡

云南水酒

木瓜水和柠檬水


山水坝子探食记

曲靖小粑粑和陆良麻衣馓子

关街:曾经飞机翅膀下的街子

哀牢山寻鱼记

峨山觅食记

玉溪三锅

拍案惊奇元江菜

哀牢山三脯

恩水线

个旧斗姆阁卤鸡

河口小记

建水十八吃

瑶家山的惊艳

墨江散记

从西盟到孟连

三上千家寨

澜沧三吃

昔归三味

德宏三叹

腾冲饭记

腾冲江鱼

午饭明子山

双廊做饭记

寺登街的毛驴馆

我的大理菜

大理砂锅鱼

大理梅子饼

大理喜洲:白族人家的讲究

洱海醉虾

喜洲粑粑

诺邓火腿

三江并流同心酒

怒江:丙中洛的口味

兰坪记食

怒江峡谷的苞谷稀饭

分水岭的杂锅菜

叶枝散记

丽江鸡豆粉

做饭丽江

泸沽湖鲫壳鱼

米线故事

吃鸡路线图

云南的辣度

说说云南茶山





Book Abstract

米线故事

米线浅说

米线起码有两种,细米线和粗米线,前者不发酵,又叫干浆米线;后者发酵,也称酸浆米线。介于两者之间,还有种轻微发酵的“水米线”;米的材质不一样,还有红米米线、紫米米线等。纯粹从技术角度来讲,米线的最高境界,要算粗米线,关键就是发酵。发酵可以改变米浆的物理性质,使用简单的工具,就可以方便地挤压出米线丝,这在缺乏加工机械的农耕时代非常重要;同时使得粗米线质地软滑,内部结构疏松饱含空隙,容易入味,用来煮小锅米线拌豆花非常理想。

豆花米线

昆明上得了宴席下得去街巷坐得进公园的祖传小吃凉米线变种,至少清代中晚期已经出现在昆明一带。传说“三中全会”后,重新首发于一条失名街道长春路,分素、荤两种,各有标配,但均富含颤抖不已的嫩豆花。豆花米线的主料米线,必须是酸浆米线即“粗米线”。酸浆米线为发酵米线,发酵过程中产生的大量气泡,滞留或者逸出,均可以舒筋化骨、开张襟怀,使之“入味”性能良好,同时嫩滑到临界糜烂。围绕酸浆米线,至少有两种“敌对势力”存在:“爱得要命”派和“恨得要死”分子。不管属于哪一派,都党同伐异同仇敌忾。道理其实很简单,要看究竟是粗米线还是细米线,哪一位抢先牢牢控制了唇齿肠胃,掠走了情感。唉,爱啊,爱这个事情,即便遇到米线,也会变得很复杂。

家煮米线

大周末早上,什么最重要?补觉第一,其他其次,不渴醒饿醒或者其他醒不起。一觉睡到自然醒,想都不用想,瞌睡饱了肚子饿了,但那种时候,往往连出去“划”碗米线都嫌麻烦,自己随手煮碗来“甩甩”最合意也最写意,但必须头天提前准备好材料,或者家中另有早起的“鸟儿”不发愁。

首先要有米线。牛吃菠萝菜,各人心中爱,具体什么米线,那要看个人爱好。像我原来喜欢粗米线,后来一律买“水

米线”,感觉有点筋骨口感更好,入味也还不错。至于分量,以目前的物价计算,两人份一顿的话,两块钱最多三块钱的足够。

其次要有点腌菜和绿菜。就目前的形势来看,昆明市面上的好腌菜,当推玉溪新平腌菜。老牌子货弥渡腌菜,近年只有小包装,散装已经不见。我买的话,喜欢买整条的长腌菜,筷子下去挑上一条半片,过秤给钱然后去买别的菜,等摊主木槽双刀剁细后,再回来取走。绿菜要看季节,有豌豆尖固然不错,没有的话,白菜、青菜、水芹菜甚至菜耳朵都可以尝试一下,自由自在发挥想象,并不一定要按菜谱的套路去走。要说定式,以我为例,韭菜最好是带紫皮的小韭菜,不能没有;芫荽最好也有点,最近还好上了一口大芫荽。

太素不行,昆明高原地区,水硬、气候干燥、紫外线强,没有点油水拿法不住肠胃,最起码要来点肉酱。肉要肥瘦都有,再买块老姜或者仔姜不管,自己细细剁出来味道才好。也不麻烦,只要把别人吹散牛发微博的时间,挤出来剁肉就可以,然后调上点汤池老酱,随手一炒就好。鲜肉末可以留下少许,水调后煮进米线。太清淡也不理想,油辣子或者煳辣子起码要有点,再捣上颗小米辣,煳辣结合生辣,那最过瘾。我发现不少人炒煳辣子,相当随手,辣椒的香气,主要依靠辣椒籽,我焙辣子的话,起码加热三次冷却三次,最后一次还要用锅铲斩断辣椒,让辣椒籽散出并添加点花椒同焙,最后等冷却下来,才用臼捣碎。

有了这些东西,一碗简约家做小锅米线,已经粗具规模。不过千省万省,最好不要省肚子,起码还要来点肉汤,买肉的时候多买一点,清水姜片随便煮一下,下晚好做个凉白肉什么的,那点汤水,可以作为快捷式汤头。要是炖点排骨,那么可以升级一下,弄上一碗排骨小锅米线。嫌排骨不便宜,那就大排,顺便剔点附肉下来撕小,搞成肉丝小锅米线。我比较倾向于扇子骨,骨边肉不少,煮一下剔下来可以大肆切片。当然缺点也有,油水浓郁程度,远不如筒子骨。

我还有个经常性的做派,买上只茶花鸡汽锅煮出来,中午汤滗点汁煮米线。那种茶花鸡分量不足一公斤,一两个人吃将合适。肉质还比较细嫩,顺便汽锅煮上半小时或四十分钟,已经可吃。但是茶花鸡油水有限,算优点或者缺点,那要看各人的观点和需要。汽锅的话,建议买母鸡,稍微还有点油水。

舍得下本钱的话,最好还是来上只婚后“纯”土老母鸡,有了这个东西,事情就好办了,想来碗过桥米线也不难。毕竟过桥米线发源的两个重点版本出现,一枝双花,十分有趣,相辅相成,扑朔迷离以外,耐人寻味。

红河一带的过桥米线,目前仍然坚持着农歌炊烟样式的正宗,散发着原来的古朴。这里面要素中的要素,就是汤好,要么复合浓香,要么单纯奇妙。复合者如猪过桥,地道的汤材主要有猪筒子骨、土鸡、火腿骨,甚至鸭子;单纯者如羊过桥,羊汤熬到奶白,极其纯粹。汤的好坏,还在于和米线、荤素配料结合如何,欠不足取,过犹不及。需要安慰安慰营养发烧友的是,小火慢炖多时的上汤,意在唤醒味蕾打开胃口,而其中的营养,自己琢磨琢磨,到底会在哪里?

建水、蒙自所产的草芽和过桥米线,乃是绝配,清秀去腻。后来的菊花,也是好搭子(搭档),清凉镇腥。红河一带,喜爱干浆米线(不发酵),这和当地气候炎热、水质等情况有关。传统过桥米线不用味精提味,而是用豌豆长时间熬制成的豆团,豆团入汤融化。红河过桥米线,汤碗尤其巨大,俗称老海碗。


Introduction

自序 云南遇

触摸千奇百怪的云南食材,捷径就是各地菜市场、乡街子。

云南大地各种各样的食材在菜市场表达得更充分也浓烈,逛云南菜市场,特别是横断山区的菜市场,提前要有个心理准备:常规饮食常识,可用无多;通行饮食趣味和审美,会被碾压和颠覆。

一些视角独到的人类学者认为,历史资料中山地民族游耕、渔猎采集、异食异味等记载,正是前人以平原国家标准化饮食为参照,所设计出的无标准无体系的对应饮食文化———主粮、食材选择极其广泛、生食、竹木炊具食具、过度发酵食物、草木灰代盐、特殊饮俗……游耕和混合生计模式的山民,由此建立和维护群体认同,并在餐桌上树立起难以逾越的边界。

生态多样复杂,动植物资源丰富,食材选择范围的确宽泛;异食异味现象,现在虽然轮廓模糊逐渐淡化,却也还有迹可寻。特别是横断山区部分,当地谚语云:“绿色的都是菜,会动的都是肉。”支持这种说法的,还有实在数据:云南食用花卉不完全统计有303 种、常见野菜150 多种;西双版纳基诺山的基诺族,采集野菜多达108 种,经常食用的有40 种;德宏州的景颇族,采集野菜种类有92 种;即便非山地民族,采集种类也相当可观,红河河谷中北段的稻作民族花腰傣,野菜采集种类,也达72 种以上。

除当地熟手和专业人员以外,一般人想要辨识这些当地食材,障碍诸多、难度较大—百濮、百越、氐羌、三苗……各民族大散居、小聚居,插花式分布于地形复杂、气候多样的云南,六大语族相互穿插交织,再加上各民族普遍存在的区域方言,语言就成了大问题,当地人即便会说汉语,但一口方言,也很容易陷入鸡同鸭讲的境地。更何况还有十多个民族跨境而居,散布在东南亚、南亚各国,饮食背景更加扑朔迷离。

横断山最初的意思,就是江山相隔,交通交流极度不便,植物同物异名、异物同名现象,绝非个别,随时可遇。比如保山、临沧一带称为马路菜的野菜,到了楚雄,这种中文名西垂茉莉的野菜,却叫臭菜,与西双版纳俗称臭菜的羽叶金合欢嫩叶尖,又算异物同名。要知道,云南山区交通条件大幅改善,不过是近20 年间发生的事情,当前高速公路七八小时可以到达的德宏芒市、西双版纳景洪,20 世纪90 年代中期,路上所费时间,起码3 天以上。

非标准无体系的山地饮食文化、跨境而居的少数民族、采集广泛、缺乏参照、语言障碍、同物异名、异物同名……这些向度不同、深浅不一的因素,交织纠缠,云南的菜市场,足以让一个偶然闯入者,在打开一个新世界、灵光闪现前,出现无助感。不过坚持不懈地追寻,另一种直觉一定油然而生:这可能是世界上陆生食材最富集的所在。

敢于胡乱

2018 年7 月,于云南昆明


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Yami has a consolidation warehouse in China which collects multiple sellers’ packages and combines to one order. Our Yami consolidation warehouse will directly ship the packages to your door. Cross-store free shipping over $69.

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You may return products within 30 days upon receiving the products. Sellers take responsibilities for any wrong shipment or missing items. Packing needs to be unopened for any other than quality issues return. We promise to pack carefully, but because goods are taking long journey to destinations, simple damages to packaging may occur. Any damages not causing internal goods quality problems are not allowed to return. If you open the package and any quality problem is found, please contact customer service within three days after receipt of goods.

Shipping Information

Yami Consolidation Service Shipping Fee $9.99(Free shipping over $69)

Sellers in China will ship their orders within 1-2 business days once the order is placed. Packages are sent to our consolidation warehouse in China and combined there. Our Yami consolidation warehouse will directly ship the packages to you via UPS. The average time for UPS to ship from China to the United States is about 10 working days and it can be traced using the tracking number. Due to the pandemic, the delivery time may be delayed by about 5 days. The package needs to be signed by the guest. If the receipt is not signed, the customer shall bear the risk of loss of the package.

Sold by JD@CHINA

Service Guarantee

Free shipping over 69
Genuine guarantee

Shipping

Yami Consolidated Shipping $9.99(Free shipping over $69)


Seller will ship the orders within 1-2 business days. The logistics time limit is expected to be 7-15 working days. In case of customs clearance, the delivery time will be extended by 3-7 days. The final receipt date is subject to the information of the postal company.

Yami Points information

All items are excluding from any promotion or points events on Yamibuy.com

Return Policy

You may return product within 30 days upon receiving the product. Items returned must be new in it's original packing, including the original invoice for the purchase. Customer return product at their own expense.

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About the brand

Jingdong book

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About the brand

Jingdong book